Modeling Hints and Tips:

Photographic Modeling: is an exciting, glamorous, and creative career that can also be financially rewarding. However, modeling is a very competitive field. Sometimes people with patience and perseverance, rather than looks, are more successful. Rejections are part of the modeling profession, and should never be taken personally. Other than being genetically fortunate, there is usually no luck involved in becoming a successful model. It requires developing some basic skills, following some established business practices, and using common sense.

Here are some modeling terms that you should be familiar with:

COPYRIGHT:
The copyrights to a photograph in most cases always belongs to the photographer. He owns the image, and can pretty much do what he wants with it. However, models are usually protected by a Models’s Release. Photographs are always given to you with the intent that they are for your personal use only,such as in your portfolio. You may not sell or publish the photographs without a Photographer’s Release.

A MODEL RELEASE:
is a contract signed by the model. It gives permission to the photographer to use photographs taken at a particular sitting. Usually the photographer will use the photographs in his own advertising or as a display on his wall. This normally does not give the photographer permission to sell the photographs as Stock Prints,unless it is stated that way in the release. If photographs are used without a release, or in a way different from what is stated in the release, then the model can sue for breach of contract.

A PHOTOGRAPHER RELEASE:
is a contract signed by the photographer. It gives permission to the model to use the photographs taken during a particular sitting.

STOCK PRINTS:
are collections of pictures that the photographer keeps available to paying clients. For example, if a client is doing an ad for a resort, he may ask a photographer if they have a photo of someone fishing. The photographer sells the image to the client, giving the client the right to use it in the ad. Unless there is a written agreement with the model in the photo, the photographer is not obligated to pay the model for that sale, but most reputable photographers do share that revenue with the model as a courtesy.

A HEAD SHOT OR CLOSE-UP:
is a photograph of the head and shoulders.

RUNWAY MODELING:
is fashion show modeling. Models work on a long, raised platform about four feet wide.

A COMPOSITE:
is the model's business card. It is also called the ZED card. Currently, postcard-size is popular. One side contains a head shot, the other side several small photographs together with information about the model. In recent years, with the advent and improvements of laser copiers and color printers, "birthday card" style composites are becoming much more widely used. Printed on 11x17 sheets and folded to a finished 5 1/2 x 8 1/2 card, these composites work just as well, and can be produced at a greatly reduced cost.

A CONTACT SHEET:
also called PROOFS, is a contact print of negatives on 8 x10-inch photographic paper. These images are the same size as the negatives, and require use of a magnification glass to evaluate them.

A DRESSER:
is a person who makes sure that clothes fit the model properly, and pins them if necessary. Don’t be shy or embarrassed if this is a man, often it is also the photographer.

A FITTING:
is when the clothes are fitted to the model. Usually, a model gets paid less than the normal modeling rate for this time.

A FREELANCE MODEL:
is a self-promoting model, one not associated with a modeling agency.

A HEAD SHEET:
is a poster displaying head shots and information about models represented by a modeling agency

A PORTFOLIO OR MODEL'S BOOK:
is a collection of photographs or tear sheets demonstrating a model's abilities in front of the camera.

A TEAR SHEET:
is a page containing the model's image removed from a publication. This sheet is usually added to the model's portfolio. Photographer’s also use the term "Tear Sheet" to describe pages taken from magazines as examples for models to emulate, or to try to have themselves photographed similar to.

A RESUME:
is a sheet listing a model's education, experience, and vital statistics. The resume is usually attached to an 8X10 or a composite

An 8X10 OR GLOSSY:
is an 8-by-10-inch photograph of the model, usually a head shot

A TEST SHOOT:
is when a model and photographer work together on a new idea or on their portfolios. No fees other than sharing film-and-developing expenses are involved. Model and Photographer Releases should be signed before the session

A GO-SEE:
is a model's appointment to see a potential client

TYPES OF MODELING:
HIGH FASHION MODELING:
High Fashion Modeling is the modeling of designer clothes, either at fashion shows or in publications. Sometimes, the modeling of jewelry and cosmetics falls into this category. The models are hired through agencies, and the pay rate is the highest among all modeling jobs. Of course, the advertisers' expectations also run high. The agencies choose models with a proven track record for this type of modeling.


PHYSICAL REQUIREMENTS FOR HIGH FASHION MODELING:

Usually, modeling agencies have the following requirements for new models:
Age under 26.
Height 5' 7" to 6’ 0" for women, 5' 11" to 6' 2" for men.
Weight proportional to height.
Long legs, especially from floor to knee.
Women with a long neck preferred.
A good complexion
However, there are exceptions to the physical requirements. For example, height requirements may be relaxed for jewelry or cosmetics advertisements.

EDITORIAL MODELING:
Editorial Modeling is similar to High Fashion Modeling, except that the model works for a particular publication. The readers of that publication make up a target audience for the photographs taken. Images in the non-advertisement sections of the fashion magazines, such as Glamour, Vogue, or Seventeen, are good examples of this type of modeling. The physical requirements are less stringent than for High Fashion Modeling, but the pay rate is considerably less. Many more models are needed for Editorial Modeling, and Editorial experience opens the door to High Fashion Modeling.

GLAMOUR MODELING:
Attractive women have always been featured by manufacturers in their advertisements in order to draw attention to their products. Such advertisements often contain photographs seen in magazines, newspapers, posters, billboards, calendars, or TV commercials. More books are written about glamour photography than any other type of photography, and many models are used in these books as well, to demonstrate different photographic techniques. There are no established physical requirements for Glamour Models, other than the model must be beautiful and/or sexy in the photographs. An elegant lady in an evening dress, the eye-catching face of a beautiful girl, a shapely woman in casual dress, swim-wear, or lingerie can all become subjects for glamour photography. Most of the nude photography also falls into this category. In Fashion Modeling, the beautiful woman is used to make the clothes look good. In Glamour Modeling, the clothes (or lack of) are what makes the model look good. Pay rates can be very good for Glamour Modeling. Usually, the pay rate doubles for posing in lingerie or in the nude. Some Figure and Art Modeling, typically artistic nude photography, is also included in the Glamour Modeling category.

CATALOG MODELING:
While some Catalog Modeling involves posing with products, most is done wearing store-brand clothes. Even though pay rates are considerably lower than for High Fashion Modeling, it is desirable to get booked as a Catalog Model, because hours are consistent and repeat-modeling opportunities are high. Look through some mail-order catalogs to get an idea of what is involved. Physical requirements are not stringent. Usually, the side of the clothing not shown on the photograph will have many alteration pins attached, and some models find this inconvenient.

RUNWAY MODELING:
Runway Models must have measurements that fit an actual standard clothing size. There are many different kinds of Runway Modeling. Many modeling agencies specialize in Runway Modeling bookings. Two of the opportunities for Runway Models are:

Designer Fashion Shows, where clothes designers present their upcoming designs.
Fashion Shows, run by a store or by a designer in a store, mall, hotel, or club.
Runway Modeling pays less than photographic modeling. Pay is on a show-by-show basis, ranging from $100 to $400 per show.


SPECIALTY MODELING:
Models with long fingers and well-manicured nails have opportunities to display their hands demonstrating domestic products. For men, a demand exists for the husky, masculine hand, or alternatively the more elegant, long-fingered hand. Women with well-proportioned feet are needed for shoe advertisements. Advertisements of stockings, pantyhose, and razors require women with nicely-shaped legs. Hair products call for female and male models with good hair. There are numerous other Specialty Modeling opportunities. However, you should not start by concentrating solely on Specialty Modeling. Just prepare a standard portfolio, including a few photographs that emphasize areas of your body you might use for Specialty Modeling. Most agencies pick models for Specialty work from their regular modeling pool.

CHARACTER MODELING:
Some jobs require models with an everyday look, such as a truck driver, mechanic, grocery clerk, schoolteacher, cleaning person, appliance repair person, and so on. All models in television commercials (such as Rosie the cleaning lady) are character models.

CONVENTION AND TRADE SHOW MODELING:
These shows use many female models to demonstrate products, hand out leaflets or brochures, and answer questions.

MODELING IN TV COMMERCIALS:
TV Commercials offer a growing area of opportunities to models with some acting background. Many modeling agencies now include a TV Commercial Department.

MODELING FOR PHOTOGRAPHERS:
Like models, photographers need a portfolio, which they must constantly update as they develop new skills or keep up with fashion trends. Occasionally, professional photographers agree to do test shoots of established models with good portfolios. Even though there is no pay involved, these test shoots can lead to well-paying opportunities for the model. Advanced amateur photographers are usually willing to pay an experienced model, for helping them to improve their skills.

OTHER OPPORTUNITIES FOR MODELS:
There are opportunities for the oversized or undersized model. The demand for ordinary-looking models with whom a majority of the audience can identify continues to increase. Many other opportunities exist that might fall into one of the modeling categories mentioned above.


MAKEUP SKILLS:
The makeup that a model uses for her photographic assignments is different from what she uses every day. In photography, the skin must be blemish-free and smooth, and it must have a matte surface to prevent unwanted highlights. The eyes and mouth should have a fine definition. Otherwise, the fine details of the face will be lost in a magazine image. The loss of detail is due in part to strong photographic lighting, which penetrates the makeup layer, and in part to preparation of photographs for mass printing.
Black and White (B&W) photography has a special set of problems. For example, since B&W film is not sensitive to the color red, with normal makeup the red areas appear too light in the print. To overcome this problem, a purple color with lots of blue in it is used on the cheeks and lips.

In general, photographic makeup is heavier than regular makeup. For head shots the makeup can be lighter, because larger image-size holds up better during the magazine printing process.

Faces come in many different shapes. Photographic makeup should maximize the natural beauty of your face while minimizing any facial irregularities. The ideal photogenic face is oval in shape. If the face is too round, a darker shade of makeup is used on the front edges to simulate shadows, making the face appear more oval. If the face is too narrow, a lighter shade is used on the sides, with the same result. The photographer can also compensate for facial irregularities, by using various lighting arrangements.

In many modeling jobs makeup artists are not available. Therefore, you must learn to apply your own makeup. When you apply for modeling jobs, questions will be asked to determine your skills in applying makeup.

The best way to learn more about applying photographic makeup is to visit local "beauty supply" stores and ask for suggestions. Sometimes the staff will do a free evaluation of your face, and recommend the most suitable makeup styles for you. Look through the yellow pages of the phone book to find locations of local beauty supply stores. After you have completed your research, build a photographic-makeup kit and start practicing the techniques. Most young women are already familiar with basic makeup techniques, so it usually takes only a few days to complete the research, build a kit, and learn how to apply the makeup. By the way, children and men also use makeup during photographic modeling assignments. The makeup kit that you build will go with you to every interview and assignment.

HAIR:
Long hair, at least to the shoulders, is best for female models. No matter what length your hair is, start with a good basic style that allows for versatility. Which hairstylist you choose is critical. Pick a good one based on your own experience, or ask for recommendations from your friends or relatives.

After you have your hair styled, practice changing the look of it. Remember that every time you change your outfit during a modeling session, the look of your hair should also change. Some of the variations are as simple as adding a scarf or flower, or fashioning a wind-blown or a wet look. Most photographic modeling jobs include a hairstylist, to assist you in changing the look of your hair.

POSING:
Learning to pose is a career-long process. No matter how much experience you have, every time you work in front of a camera, you will discover some new way of showing your creativity. As a new model, you must first learn to relax in front of the camera, so that you can begin to develop creatively.

Here are two suggestions on how to enhance your posing skills:

Every time you are in front of a mirror, try a different expression. Show happiness, sadness, anger, surprise, boredom, etc. through the medium of your face
Go through some fashion magazines and mail order catalogs. Pick 10 photos that you like, cut them out, and paste them into a scrap book, in pairs. Step in front of a mirror, and imitate the pose in one photo of the first pair. Then slowly transform your pose to imitate the pose in the other photo of the pair. Repeat this exercise with the rest of the photos.
In actual modeling jobs, you will be doing exactly what was just described, except that you will have the benefit of a photographer guiding you through the steps. As you can see, posing is not extremely difficult. All you have to do is learn to relax in front of the camera, have fun, and let your creativity come through.

 

Do you need to attend a modeling school?
No. In fact, most photographers say that they actually end up having to retrain the model to get her out of bad habits that a particular school got her into. While some schools can be quite good, a mediocre school is a total waste of time and money.

One big problem with some modeling schools is that they tell every single girl that walks in how beautiful she is and how she would make a great model. While that statement alone is not always true, it’s a fairly normal statement to make if you’re getting paid a commission to sell lessons. They’re trying to encourage you to subscribe to the school! But their classes are usually primarily geared toward runway modeling and the high-fashion industry. Since there are physical requirements such as height for these jobs, telling a short girl that has no chance of getting those jobs that she can if she takes the school is, in my opinion, a crime.

But most photographers will agree that the only thing most women get out of even the best schools, is poise and being relaxed in front of the camera. You can get that on your own by simply working with good photographers. GOOD LUCK !!!!!!

 

J.C.Dawson

 

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